Ingredient glossary

22 ingredients. 3 layers. 1 structure

Every ingredient in the balm has a job. This is what each one is, where it comes from, and what it does for your skin.

The Oils

Selected for their contribution to supporting healthy-looking skin.

Abyssinian

Ethiopian highlands | Northern Europe

Abyssinian

Crambe abyssinica

Texture. Unusually light, with a silk-like slip.

Abyssinian oil is rich in erucic acid, a very-long-chain fatty acid. This gives the oil its remarkably light, dry skin feel. It spreads in a thin layer, absorbs quickly and leaves the skin feeling smooth without a greasy film.

This is one of the main reasons the balm feels so light despite its high concentration of oils. Many botanical balms feel heavy on the skin. This one does not, partly because Abyssinian oil makes the texture lighter and more supple.
Apricot Kernel Oil

Central Asia

Apricot Kernel Oil

Prunus armeniaca (kernel oil)

Carrier. Lightweight, oleic-rich, highly compatible with skin.

Apricot kernel oil gives the balm a soft, supple texture. Rich in oleic acid, it spreads easily over the skin and leaves it feeling comfortable without a heavy film.

Within the formula, it mainly serves as a carrier oil. It helps the other seed oils distribute evenly across the skin and makes the first contact with the balm soft and pleasant. Its naturally occurring tocopherols also help protect the oil from oxidation.

You may not notice apricot kernel oil on its own, but you would notice if it were missing. It is part of what makes the balm feel soft, light and easy to spread.
Babassu

Brazilian Amazon

Babassu

Orbignya oleifera (seed oil)

Softness and moisture retention. A light, quick-melting oil rich in lauric acid.

Babassu oil melts quickly when it meets the warmth of the skin. It spreads easily and leaves the skin feeling soft and supple without a heavy, greasy finish.

Its fatty acids leave a thin, comfortable lipid layer that helps slow moisture loss. This helps dry skin retain its hydration and feel smoother and more comfortable for longer.

Within the formula, babassu also helps the balm melt evenly and contributes to its light finish after application.
Cacay

Colombian Amazon

Cacay

Caryodendron orinocense

Barrier support. Exceptionally rich in linoleic acid, with natural vitamin E and plant sterols.

Cacay oil contains an unusually high proportion of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that plays an important role in the lipid structure of the skin barrier. Its fatty acid profile helps keep the skin soft and supple and supports its ability to hold on to moisture.

It also contains naturally occurring vitamin E and plant sterols. These add antioxidant support to the formula and help protect the oil itself from oxidation. Cacay absorbs quickly and leaves very little residue, which makes it particularly useful in a balm that needs to feel nourishing without feeling heavy.

Cacay is sometimes described as a natural source of retinol, but that is misleading. It does not contain retinol. Its value lies in its high linoleic acid content, natural antioxidants and remarkably light skin feel.
Jojoba

California, America

Jojoba

Simmondsia chinensis

Softness and moisture retention. A light liquid wax that leaves the skin smooth and supple.

Jojoba is usually called an oil, but it is technically a liquid wax made almost entirely from long-chain wax esters. Wax esters also occur naturally in human sebum, although the two are not identical. This helps explain jojoba’s smooth spread and comfortable feel on the skin.

On the skin, jojoba acts as an emollient. It softens dry, rough areas and leaves a fine lipid layer that helps the skin hold on to moisture, without creating a heavy or greasy finish.

Within the Six Seed Balm, jojoba forms an important part of the base. It supports the skin in its own right, while also helping the other oils spread evenly and giving the balm its soft, supple glide.
Squalane

derived from olives, Portugal

Squalane

Squalane

Lightness. A stable emollient with a silky skin feel.

Squalane is the stable, hydrogenated form of squalene, one of the lipids naturally found in human sebum. It spreads easily over the skin and leaves it feeling smooth and supple, with very little greasy residue.

As an emollient, it softens dry, rough skin and leaves a fine lipid layer that helps the skin hold on to moisture. This is particularly useful as sebum production tends to decline with age, which can contribute to increasing dryness.

Within the Six Seed Balm, squalane forms an important part of the base. It gives the balm its light, silky glide and helps the other oils distribute evenly without making the formula feel heavy.

Butters and waxes

Chosen for texture and form

Candelilla Wax

Mexico

Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia cerifera

Structure and moisture retention. A plant-derived wax that gives the balm form and leaves a fine protective layer.

Candelilla wax gives the balm part of its firmness and helps keep the oils and butters together in a stable, anhydrous formula. It allows the balm to hold its shape in the jar, while still softening easily when it meets the warmth of the skin.

On the skin, candelilla leaves a fine, flexible lipid layer that helps slow moisture loss. This helps dry skin hold on to its hydration and feel softer and more comfortable after application.
Cetyl Alcohol

Indonesia

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Softness and glide. A fatty alcohol that smooths the balm and helps soften the skin.

Despite the name, cetyl alcohol is not the kind of alcohol that dries the skin. It is a long-chain fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient, helping dry or rough skin feel softer and smoother.

Within the formula, it gives the balm its satin glide and helps it spread evenly over the skin. It also adds structure, allowing the balm to remain firm in the jar while still melting comfortably during application.

The result is a softer skin feel and a smooth finish without the heaviness of a greasy layer.
Illipe Butter

Borneo

Illipe Butter

Shorea stenoptera (seed butter)

Firmness and moisture retention. A rich plant butter that gives the balm structure and helps keep the skin soft.

Illipe is one of the firmer plant butters. Its high stearic acid content gives the balm body and helps it hold its shape in the jar, while still softening readily on contact with the skin.

On the skin, illipe leaves a thin, comfortable lipid layer that helps slow moisture loss. This allows the skin to retain its hydration and feel softer and more supple for longer, without leaving a heavy or greasy finish.

Within the formula, it brings both stability and lasting comfort to dry skin.
Jojoba Butter

Israel

Jojoba Butter

Simmondsia chinensis (hydrogenated)

Firmness and softness. Gives the balm body and helps the skin retain moisture.

Jojoba butter is made by hydrogenating jojoba oil, turning the naturally liquid wax into a solid form. It keeps the soft, smooth skin feel of jojoba while adding more structure to the balm.

On the skin, it leaves a light lipid layer that helps soften dry areas and slow moisture loss. Within the formula, it helps the balm hold its shape in the jar, then melt smoothly as it warms against the skin.

It gives the formula firmness without making the finish feel heavy.
Mango Butter

India

Mango Butter

Mangifera indica (seed butter)

Softness and moisture retention. gives the balm body and leaves the skin smooth and supple.

Mango butter is rich in oleic and stearic acids. On the skin, it acts as an emollient, softening dry or rough areas and leaving behind a thin, comfortable lipid layer that helps slow moisture loss. This allows the skin to hold on to its hydration and feel softer for longer.

Within the formula, mango butter gives the balm its full, satin texture. It remains firm in the jar, then softens as it warms against the skin, allowing the balm to spread smoothly without leaving a heavy or greasy finish.

The Actives

Chosen to work deeper.

Astaxanthin

China

Astaxanthin

Haematococcus pluvialis Extract

Antioxidant protection

The richest natural source of astaxanthin is the freshwater microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis. In the wild, these microscopic algae thrive in shallow, temporary freshwater pools, rock crevices, and small ponds that are exposed to intense sunlight.

These microalgae produce astaxanthin as a survival mechanism.

From green to red

The richest natural source of astaxanthin is the freshwater microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. In nature, it is found in temporary pools, small ponds and other shallow bodies of freshwater exposed to changing conditions.

The algae produce astaxanthin as part of their natural defence system.

The two growth phases

Green phase

When water, light and nutrients are in balance, the algae remain green and use their energy to grow and multiply.

Red phase

As conditions become more difficult, through intense sunlight, nutrient scarcity or water loss, the algae form a protective cyst and begin producing large amounts of astaxanthin. This is what turns them deep red and helps protect the cells against oxidative stress.
Bakuchiol

India

Bakuchiol

Psoralea corylifolia

Skin quality. A botanical active studied for smoother texture, fine lines and a more even-looking complexion.

Bakuchiol is often compared with retinol, but it is not a retinoid. It has a different chemical structure, while research suggests that it can influence some of the same processes associated with skin ageing.

In a twelve-week clinical study, bakuchiol produced improvements in fine lines and pigmentation that were comparable to retinol, with fewer reports of scaling and stinging. That is why I chose it for this formula. It supports smoother, more even-looking skin while generally being better tolerated by skin that finds retinol difficult to use.

It is not retinol, and it does not need to be. Its value lies in what it can offer in its own right, visible support for skin quality in a form that fits regular use.
Pomegranate Seed

Anatolia, Turkey

Pomegranate Seed

Punica granatum

Resilience. CO₂ extracted and naturally rich in punicic acid, a rare omega 5 fatty acid.

Punicic acid occurs in very few plant oils. Pomegranate seed oil is its richest known natural source, and this unusual fatty acid makes up a large part of its composition.

On the skin, the oil helps soften dry areas and leaves a fine lipid layer that supports moisture retention. Early research also points to mild soothing and protective effects, although research on the human skin is still limited.

There is only a small amount in the Six Seed Balm, but it brings a fatty acid profile that none of the other seed oils can provide.
Rosehip

South Africa

Rosehip

Rosa canina

Skin quality. CO₂ extracted, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, with naturally occurring carotenoids and tocopherols.

Rosehip CO₂ is extracted differently from standard cold-pressed rosehip oil. The process captures its fatty acid profile together with lipophilic compounds such as carotenoids, tocopherols and plant sterols.

Its high linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid content is an important reason why it is in this formula. These essential fatty acids help soften the skin and support the lipid-rich surface that allows it to hold on to moisture. The naturally occurring antioxidants also help protect the oil from oxidation and add antioxidant support to the formula.

Over time, rosehip CO₂ contributes to skin that feels softer and looks smoother and more even. Not overnight. Not dramatically.
Sea Buckthorn

Sonoran Desert, Mexico

Sea Buckthorn

Hippophae rhamnoides (fruit extract)

Resilience and moisture retention. CO₂ extracted from the fruit and naturally rich in palmitoleic acid and carotenoids.

This CO₂ extract comes from the fruit rather than the seed. That distinction matters because the fruit has a very different lipid profile. It is particularly rich in palmitoleic acid, a rare omega 7 fatty acid found in only a small number of plant oils.

It also contains naturally occurring carotenoids, tocopherols and plant sterols. Together, these contribute antioxidant support while the lipids soften the skin and help it hold on to moisture.

The deep orange colour comes from its carotenoids. It disperses into a subtle warmth on the skin, leaving it feeling soft, supple and comfortable.
Sunflower Lecithin

Europe

Sunflower Lecithin

Helianthus annuus (seed phospholipids)

Structure and softness. A phospholipid-rich ingredient that helps bring the formula together and leaves the skin feeling supple.

Sunflower lecithin is rich in phospholipids, a class of lipids also found in cell membranes. Within the Six Seed Balm, it helps the oils and waxes form a more cohesive texture and contributes to the soft, cushiony feel as the balm melts over the skin.

On the skin, lecithin acts as an emollient. It helps soften the surface and contributes to the fine lipid layer that helps slow moisture loss, leaving dry skin feeling more comfortable and supple.

Its role in this formula is straightforward. It improves the way the balm holds together and adds to the soft, conditioned feel that remains after application.
Tomato Seed

Mediterranean

Tomato Seed

Solanum lycopersicum

Barrier support and moisture retention. Cold pressed and naturally rich in linoleic acid.

Tomato seed oil is pressed from the seeds, a part of the fruit that is often left behind during food production. Its value lies in its fatty acid profile. The oil is naturally rich in linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that plays an important role in the lipid structure of the skin barrier.

On the skin, it helps soften dry areas and contributes to the fine lipid layer that slows moisture loss. Its naturally occurring tocopherols and phytosterols add antioxidant support to the formula and help protect the oil itself from oxidation.

Within the Six Seed Balm, tomato seed oil supports moisture retention and helps keep the skin soft and comfortable, without making the formula feel heavy.

The Scent

Present, not dominant.

Bergamot FCF

Italy

Bergamot FCF

Citrus bergamia (peel oil expressed, furocoumarin-free)

Freshness. A bright citrus top note with a clean, natural finish.

Bergamot gives the balm its fresh, bright opening note. The FCF version has had the furocoumarins responsible for bergamot’s phototoxicity removed, making it suitable for this leave-on formula at the concentration used.

It lifts the scent without making it sweet. The citrus note is light and brief, gradually giving way to the softer, woody notes underneath.
Ho oil

China

Ho oil

Cinnamomum camphora linalooliferum wood oil

Comfort and depth. A soft, woody essential oil naturally rich in linalool.

Ho oil gives the balm its quiet, woody base. It is naturally rich in linalool, which gives the scent its soft, almost floral character rather than a sharp or medicinal note.

Linalool has shown soothing and anti-inflammatory activity in laboratory studies. In this formula, I see that as a supporting quality rather than its primary purpose. Ho oil is here first for the scent, but its composition also contributes to the soft and comfortable character of the balm.

Linalool can cause sensitivity in some people, particularly as it oxidises. That is why it is declared separately on the ingredient list when present above the applicable EU threshold.

It gives the brighter bergamot top note more depth and keeps the scent as a whole natural and understated.

Formula stability

Chosen to protect the formula

Rosemary Extract

Mediterranean region

Rosemary Extract

Rosmarinus officinalis (leaf extract)

Oxidative stability. A CO₂ extract rich in natural antioxidants that helps protect the oils in the formula.

Rosemary CO₂ is included primarily to protect the formula. Its oil-soluble antioxidants, particularly carnosic acid and carnosol, help slow oxidation and keep the plant oils in good condition throughout the product’s shelf life. Research has shown that rosemary extracts can improve the oxidative stability of vegetable oils.

It works alongside tocopherol and astaxanthin to help protect the oil phase from becoming rancid. This is antioxidant protection, not preservation against microbial growth. Because the Six Seed Balm contains no water, its stability needs are different from those of a cream or serum.

Its role is simple: to help the oils remain as fresh and stable as possible.
Vitamin E

India

Vitamin E

Tocopherol

Antioxidant support. Natural vitamin E that helps protect both the oils in the formula and the skin.

Tocopherol is a natural form of vitamin E. Within the Six Seed Balm, it helps slow the oxidation of the plant oils, preserving their quality, scent and colour throughout the product’s shelf life.

On the skin, tocopherol contributes antioxidant support and helps protect the skin’s surface lipids from oxidative stress.

It works alongside astaxanthin and rosemary CO₂ as part of the formula’s antioxidant system. This is different from a preservative system. Because the balm contains no water, its main stability concern is oxidation rather than the microbial growth associated with water-based formulas. Together, these antioxidants help keep the oils stable and prevent them from becoming rancid.